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Cruising Tales From The Log of Nilaya
by Jim and Mary Gienko
July, 2004 -
Part 1
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Jim and Mary purchased Nilaya, a 36’ Bayfield |
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cutter-rigged sailboat, in 1986, with the express
purpose of someday sailing her in the Bahamas and
perhaps, even |
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further south into the Caribbean. This is the story of that first saltwater voyage, a three month
cruise to the Exumas in the
Bahamas. |
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Cruising Tales From The Log of Nilaya
by Jim Gienko
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The serious planning for the trip began in January.
Up until our move to Punta Gorda in August, 2003, Nilaya had
been a freshwater boat that we had kept on Lake
Michigan. The extent of our cruising was taking our
two or three weeks of vacation time and sailing from
port to port in Michigan and Wisconsin. Now
we had to plan for 3 months of living on board,
anchoring rather than docking, and having enough
battery power to meet our needs. Preparing the boat
mechanically and electronically was Jim’s job;
planning and provisioning the boat and getting the
house ready to close up was Mary’s task. After
dozens of trips to Boat US, West Marine and the
local hardware stores, Jim was ready. He had the
extra batteries housed and hooked up and had found
space on board for all the numerous spare parts he
planned to carry. We had jerry jugs for extra
diesel fuel, water, and gasoline. The dingy was
lashed to the deck and the outboard was hanging on
the back rail.
All the parts had been inventoried,
recorded and stored. Mary had been busy making
regular trips to Sam’s and Wal-Mart. Everyone had
warned us that food was very expensive in the
Bahamas, so stocking up at home
was a good idea. We found space aboard for 3 months
worth of food. All the cans had been labeled,
recorded and stored in their appropriate bin. All
cardboard and paper had been removed from food and
the items were stored in plastic containers or bags
to prevent cockroaches. The “wine cellar” was
stocked. The newspaper had been stopped, the mail
diverted to a post office box, the phone put on
vacation hold, all the bills for the next three
months prepaid, and a lawn service hired. Captain
Jim and Admiral Mary were ready.
A
friend once said, “The hardest part of any trip is just
leaving the dock.” Oh how true that was. We were traveling
with one other boat, good friends from up north. On the
morning of our proposed departure, Fred calls and says,
“We’re not ready, let’s leave tomorrow.” The next day, we
woke to a dark and rainy morning. Jim sat glued to the
radar screen watching the storms. At 1:30pm we saw a slight
break in the weather, and off we went, planning to stop the
first night at Useppa Island and make a long passage
the following day. The long awaited journey had begun. Jim
and Mary decided to write personal journals on this trip,
but did not share them with each other until the last week
of the trip. Sometimes it was questionable if they were
actually on the same boat because the perspectives were so
different. This series of articles come from those
journals. See if you can tell who is writing.
“A very
long day today to say the least, Naples to Little Shark
River (later on this will feel like a very short leg, but at
the time the 70 mile run felt long). If every day of
cruising is like today, I’d turn back tomorrow, but I’m sure
things will get better. We were sailing along at almost 8
knots. It took some getting used to again, heeled over
between 20-30 degrees. Repairing the rip in the sail cover
and preparing lunch nearly put me under.
Then the chaos
began. We needed to change course. To insure arrival
before nightfall, we decided to power the rest of the way.
Heading directly into the wind and the building seas, we
felt the engine begin to starve for fuel. We slowed the
engine (making a long trip even longer), and Jim cleared out
the lazarette with the expectation that he would have to
crawl down in to put a new fuel filter on (with 20 knots of
wind blowing and
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3 to 4 foot seas). We limped along on a
wait and see basis, when we suddenly heard a loud clunk.
This time it was the alternator belt. It broke. Quickly,
we put up sail and fell off the wind while Jim replaced the
broken belt. Repair done, we were off again.
Thinking the worst was over; all we needed to do was
dodge the myriad of crab pots (hereafter referred to
as land mines) in our path. As we approached
the marker into Little Shark River, we |
passed just a tad to close to the marker, and hard
aground we went.
People say you haven’t sailed southwest
Florida if you have never gone aground, so I guess we are
official now. Jim dropped the anchor in the channel and we
waited for the rising tide. Suddenly, the buzz of
mosquitoes rose to a roar and Jim shouts, “Close all the
screens.” Too late, dozens of the flesh eating monsters had
entered our home. Trying to make dinner, while swatting my
worst enemy put me in a sour mood. Add to that the plan to
re-anchor at midnight, with the rising tide, put my anxiety
level off the charts. I’m writing this at 10:00pm, safely
re-anchored (I hope), drinking a glass of wine, after a
shower, and the bad memories are fading fast. On to
Marathon tomorrow.”
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"If you are really living... you are enjoying the Punta Gorda
Life"
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