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Cruising Tales From The Log of Nilaya
by Jim and Mary Gienko
October, 2004 - Part 3

Jim and Mary purchased Nilaya, a 36’ Bayfield
cutter-rigged sailboat, in 1986, with the express purpose of someday sailing her in the Bahamas and perhaps, even
further south into the Caribbean. This is the story of that first saltwater voyage, a three month cruise to the Exumas in the Bahamas.













 
 

 

     

     

Cruising Tales

 
 

Cruising Tales From The Log of Nilaya
    by Jim Gienko
 

 

 
   

Part 3

We picked up our anchor and left Marathon around 5:00p, finally on our way to Nassau.   Although this is not the longest crossing we ever made, it was our first time crossing the Gulf Stream, and I think we both had some concerns.  The fact that we had no autopilot working meant we would have to hand steer all the way.  Although it was relatively calm, we still experienced 3-5 foot swells.  We did two hour shifts and managed to make it through the night with only a few freighters crossing our path.  We did have a problem with our running lights going out and Captain Jim had to go to the very tip of the bowsprit, hang over the rail, and install our dinghy’s portable port and starboard lights (with duck tape as a means to secure them.  Good old duck tape, don‘t leave port without it) so that we had lights for the night time crossing. 

When we hit the banks, we decided to continue to Northwest Channel as the winds had picked up out  of the NW 10-15 and then 15-20.  We continued to motorsail with the Yankee up as that was the fastest and we wanted to make the NW Channel by 5:00pm.  On the way we hit a nasty line of storms which gave birth to several waterspouts.  They were small, but they are still tornadoes on water.  We saw as many as 4 at one time and one got within a couple hundred yards before dying out. It raised some concern.  It seemed as if the squall line was moving at the same speed we were and at one point we turned around to try and get out of the weather but  we could not try that tactic too long as we wanted to be anchored at NW Channel before dark. 

Nilaya’s engine proved to be a problem for the whole first half of our three month trip and this crossing was no exception.  Seas had built with the increased wind and by the time we anchored (32 hours without sleep), waves were running 4-6 feet.  Once anchored the boat was a bucking bronco to say the least.  However, the engine had started loosing RPM’s on the crossing and Jim needed to change the fuel filter.  Down in the bilge, in the rolling seas, he does the worst possible thing; he drops the top of the fuel filter holder.  It lands in the depth of the bilge, just out of reach.  Jim needed to take the cabinet out over the engine to find it.  Fortunately God made it fall where he could see it and eventually hook it with a long wood doll with a bent metal rod taped to the end.  It took a long time to get everything back in order with the boat being tossed around like a rubber duck in a very big pond.  By 8:00pm we finally had dinner and went to bed to try and get a full night’s sleep.  Another feat to try in those seas.

We awoke to what sounded like a gunshot.  Our anchor rode had chafed through and we were adrift.  Anchoring in 4-6 foot seas means a wild pitching bow.  Jim quickly dropped another anchor, however it did not hold; we tried again with the same results. Three tries is a charm.  Now anchored, Jim wants to go in the water and try to find the lost anchor, leaving Mary on the boat, alone, with a possible dragging anchor and rain squalls all around that had returned along with 25+ knots of wind.  Needless to say, the situation required some serious “discussion.”  The compromise was to ask Fred, on Halycon, to launch his dingy (Fred’s was on davits as opposed to ours which was lashed to the deck).  Unfortunately, in the rolling seas, Fred breaks an oar lock and cannot row over.  Jim by now has been in the water with just mask and fins, searching for the anchor.  Exhausted, Jim tries to swim a line over to Fred’s dingy.  That failing, we launch our dingy in those 25+ know winds with rolling seas.   After fighting with a dinghy that thought it was an airplane, the dink finally hits the water and the outboard gets attached.  Jim goes to pick up Fred in our dingy and begin the search to find the anchor.  Every time we anchor, Jim takes the GPS coordinates just in case something like this were to happen.  Thus, after anchoring in the same spot as before, Jim was able to find the anchor by having Fred tow Jim behind the dinghy as he looked for the anchor & rode.  Finding it, Jim dives down, grabs the parted anchor rode and attaches a buoy to it.  In the meantime, the dinghy motor dies and Fred cannot start it.   Fred is drifting away and Jim is swimming away, while Mary and Jane watch all this helplessly from their respective boats.  Jim finally is able to swim back to Nilaya, lift the second anchor, and go after Fred in the drifting dingy.  Just as we get to Fred, who by this time had drifted a couple of miles from our original location, Fred discovers that the engine had run out of gas and was refueling from the gas can.  Mary had been in a semi-panic state thru most of what had been going on.  She did not like being on board alone with a questionable anchor holding Nilaya in bad conditions and her captain swimming around in the heavy seas.  Thus Jim decided not to tell Mary of his next task.  Having gotten Fred  and the dinghy back, we return to the GPS coordinates, and Jim told Mary to “keep the boat within 150 feet of the buoy marking the lost anchor“, then he went to the bow, tied the end of the remaining 150 feet of broken anchor rode around his waist and jumps over the bowsprit into the water.  He swims to the buoy and attaches the line around his waist to the lost anchor rode and swims back to Nilaya for a second time.  Once on board he ties off the first anchor and the boat once again is secure, allowing a little time to rest.  Mary did a great job keeping the boat within those 150 feet.  If she had not done that, the anchor would not have been retrieved and Jim may have been seriously injured.  Jim of course was jubilant, he got the anchor and rode back.  Mary, however, was fit to kill, it was only her joy at having Jim back on board that saved Jim’s life.  Eventually the equipment is hoisted back onboard and we set off, 2 hours after that the whole episode started, for the sail into Nassau Harbor.

As we needed to make time, and the wind was still howling, we motor sailed across the Tongue of the Ocean with 4-8 foot following seas.  We enter Nassau Harbor around 6:00pm, engine sputtering because of the fuel filter once again clogging.   Luckily, we were able to get one of the last slips available in the harbor at Hurricane Hole Marina, land of the rich and very rich.  Jim was very persistent on the radio when he made the reservation, “you are sure the slip will hold a 40 ft boat with a 12 foot bean and a draft of six feet?“  Getting an affirmative we entered the marina.  Nilaya was the smallest boat in the marina and from the bridge to Paradise Island, looked like the dinghy to the largest boat being 150 feet.  We were in a slip that would have held a 60 foot motor yacht and next to a yacht of almost 100 feet.  Once tied up Jim said “I guess the slip is big enough”.  Mary would have paid any amount to spend a night securely tied up to a dock, and pay we did.  We both went to bed that night wondering when this was going to start being fun.

 

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